Ocean Umami at Iyasare. Photo: Kate Williams
One bite of Ocean Umami and I was hooked.
This dish, a highlight on the stellar menu at the new Iyasare on Berkeley’s Fourth street, is indicative of chef Shotaro Kamio’s intricate Japanese-American cuisine. Its appearance alone is stunning—each colorful element comes together into a bold, oceanic painting. Yet nothing feels arbitrary or decorative. This plate is artistic “tweezer food” at its best: a single bite brings forth the scent of the ocean and the rich, lingering flavor of seaweed. Tart umeboshi plum gel and salty bursts of soy-marinated ikura salmon roe provide a drumbeat of brightness to the tender, fresh scallops. Slivers of rich uni are matched with brilliantly green chive and extra-virgin olive oils. Pickled wasabi leaf and nori-infused ponzu ground the dish. Even after finishing off each individual orb of roe, I wanted to lick the plate clean.(...)
Read the rest of Berkeley’s Iyasare: A game-changer for the East Bay (945 words)
By Kate Williams. |
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Post tags: Berkeley dining, Fourth Street Berkeley, Iyasare, O Chame, Shotaro Kamio